Hi,

you can manually turn the large plastic gear on the very bottom of the sledge (assuming the sledge is in position #1 and the unit is in front of you, it will be on the right side). It's a little tricky, but with a mirror and a small but somewhat long screwdriver you can do it. Carefully turn the gear clockwise unit it stops, the sledge should now be released.  If you can get a small mirror down there, or take a photo from your phone you should be able to figure it out.

Good luck,

Bill

Hi Bill, 

Many thanks for your reply!

I've tried your suggestion but I don't see any option to get at any gear within the housing of the arm. I've seen the arm disassembled and the gear I think you are talking about is way deep in the housing. It would not be accessible without disassembling the arm. I've looked at this from every possible angle but I just don't see how that would work :-(. 

Bert

Hi Bert,

I'm assuming that you have removed the glass door, is that correct?  That's the first step.

With the glass removed you will need to access the large white plastic gear that is indeed at the very bottom of the sledge just above the bottom of the tray.  Clearance is very tight. You should use a mirror or a phone to take a look at what's there.  Moving the gear is actually rather easy if you have the right tool.

I have done this myself more than once, it's not very difficult once you remove the glass and take a look under the sledge mechanism.

Bill

If you don’t have any speakers connected, the remote won’t work. You can use a powerlink connector with pins 2 and 4 shorted to simulate the speaker. This will allow for remote commands to be received.

/Weebyx

If you don’t have any speakers connected, the remote won’t work. You can use a powerlink connector with pins 2 and 4 shorted to simulate the speaker. This will allow for remote commands to be received.

/Weebyx

If you don’t have any speakers connected, the remote won’t work. You can use a powerlink connector with pins 2 and 4 shorted to simulate the speaker. This will allow for remote commands to be received.

/Weebyx

Or just start with an A-opt 1 instruction. If that doesn’t work, then you won’t get it into servicemode either. 
If the BS9000 responds to the option instruction, but not to servicemode sequence, but then the BS9000  can’t finish it’s startup routine. 
But if you’re having troubles with above procedure, then I’m wondering with what you expect to find on the inside.  

I was able to get it to move manually using the instructions above from Bill. It was finicky indeed. 

What I can see inside is that the power supply has several capacitors that are either dead or out of spec.
The tiny SMD electrolytic capacitors are all dead. 
Also the solder work is really bad, dry solder all over the place.
It is a common problem. 

Whether or not that fixes the issue remains to be seen.
There are no obviously damaged or dead components after testing. 

From my perspective the machine wants to start but is stuck in a loop. Sometimes it gets further in that loop. 
But never is it able to complete the loop nor maintain that phase. It will shut off after two minute. Then it will restart the loop. 

I will also remove, clean and reseat the different IC's that are in a cradle. 

Lastly, I do not know what "A-OPT-1" is or how to execute this. 
I am not knee deep in B&O from this era sadly. 
I can fix them, but secret codes and stuff I do not know. Especially if they are not in the service manual. 

Bert

I got it Bill, thanks. I was looking at it the wrong way. 
Now I have bene able to lift the two primary pcb's and put them under the microscope. 
Mostly it is dry soldering and bad capacitors, rest seems to be ok. 

Could still be a microprocessor failure though. That is much more difficult to trace. 

Thanks! 

Bert