BeoGram 6000 - Tonearm/Tracking problem

22 replies

Gravity Graham

Bronze

48 posts

Posted February 27, 2023 at 03:19 GMT

Having given up on my 4000, I have decided to work on the BG6000 which I have. It runs well, and drops when it should, and can be run forwards and backwards with no problems. The silent cct works OK, because sound comes out of the t/t when in play. However, it is not tracking and requires the motor to be moved manually, in order to prevent it getting stuck in one groove. I'm probably missing something, but I can't seem to find any guidance in the manual ??? Any advice will be appreciated !!

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982. Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.

Mark-sf

Bronze

592 posts

Posted February 27, 2023 at 18:28 GMT

#699288

There is a bulb ? n a plastic housing at the tonearm base that burns out and we replace with an LED kit. You can see if it’s lit. If it is there is a shutter adjustment in the manual. It’s the same for the 4xxx series.

Gravity Graham

Bronze

48 posts

Posted February 27, 2023 at 21:10 GMT

#699297

Mark-sf wrote:
There is a bulb Login to view image n a plastic housing at the tonearm base that burns out and we replace with an LED kit. You can see if it’s lit. If it is there is a shutter adjustment in the manual. It’s the same for the 4xxx series.

Silly question - What is the identity number on the circuit diagram ?
Regards - Gravity G.

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982. Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.

Mark-sf

Bronze

592 posts

Posted February 28, 2023 at 03:10 GMT

#699313

It is OIL1; however, that is not as important as its location which can’t be determined by the schematic since it is not board mounted. It is under a black plastic cover held by two brass screws directly to the right of the damping cylinder.

Gravity Graham

Bronze

48 posts

Posted February 28, 2023 at 04:42 GMT

#699314

Thanks Mark - found it ! Will check it later today !

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982. Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.

Gravity Graham

Bronze

48 posts

Posted February 28, 2023 at 21:10 GMT

#699332

OK Mark - checked it and it's lit. However I now have a different problem, with motor control.... It does everything except return or Stop ! I suppose the next thing is to remove the main board, and check the Darlington pairs & diodes !! Onwards and upwards as they say !! Any known problems with this model ??

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982. Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.

Mark-sf

Bronze

592 posts

Posted February 28, 2023 at 21:58 GMT

#699333

When you say “return and stop” do you mean if you press Stop during play it does not return or only at the end of the record? If the later that is typically a leaf switch problem as these easily corrode or get out of adjustment. Do either the “>” or “>>” work when the are is cued up? If they don’t then I would look at the electronics focusing on the caps first.

Gravity Graham

Bronze

48 posts

Posted March 1, 2023 at 14:06 GMT

#699344

Hi Mark, I can cue forward (< or <<), but not return (> or >>). If I press STOP, it does stop - but does not return. When it reaches the centre of the TT, it stops, but again refuses to return. At least on this the electronics can be unplugged for testing, unlike the 4000 ! I think you may be right about the caps - might start by replacing all electrolytics as they are a good 30 years old !! Tks - Graham

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982. Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.

Mark-sf

Bronze

592 posts

Posted March 1, 2023 at 23:41 GMT

#699364

Actually, those caps are almost 50yrs old so they definitely are a recommended starting point! I would then check closely for the listed voltages on the transistors in the servo motor circuit as it could be a bad transistor, diode or simply a broken solder joint or trace.

Gravity Graham

Bronze

48 posts

Posted March 8, 2023 at 08:02 GMT

#699518

Work is progressing slowly ! The power supply electrolytics have been replaced, but still awaiting delivery of electrolytics to replace all the Tantalum capacitors on the PCB's, before I proceed any further. I may take the time to remove and check the transistors and diodes in the motor circuit...

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982. Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.

Join BeoWorld

Become a Member

December 2026 Prize Draw

Gold Members Only

As a Gold member you're automatically entered into our exclusive prize draw — your chance to win iconic Bang & Olufsen products. A unique benefit of BeoWorld Gold membership, every draw brings a new opportunity to win something special.

View Prize Go For Gold