Hi, nice find! No need for jumpers or anything. These beograms, if not yet restored, all need new electrolytic capacitors and a thorough check for cold solder joints and cracked pcb traces. After this one can investigate the reason for the blown fuses. Quite the job however, best done by someone with experience. I'm working on the 8000s younger brother 8002 and have often wondered if I bit off more than I can chew.

Hello Premiumverum and thank you.  Glad to know no jumper needed on DIN connector.  The second fuse on secondary side was not blown, only the one on primary side.  My idea is to put external regulated supply to the main bus from outside just to see if the uProc will wake up.  I have not yet exposed that panel under the buttons but hope to get at it from there.  If I can get power to everything, then try volts at Q21 which seems to be main turn on command from the uProc.  I fix vacuum tube vintage stuff but do not enjoy working on anything solid state.

I got the entire machine dismantled to expose the main board for service.  In the course of tear down, the wires on the DIN connector have nearly all come off.  I have studied the diagram of the plug and its little board but would like to see image of intact one or what the colors are in order starting with blue on far side.  The diagram is far from clear and does not give colors.  I did make a parts list of 12 electrolytics to get as starting point.

Here is a picture of the connections on a BG8002. Login to view image Hope this helps (and you don't have to deal with the same glue on the solder). Glitch

Thank you Glitch for image and info.  There seem to have been changes though as my audio shields were in the center with hot L and R on either side.  Right now having trouble figuring out the relay coil pins for the brown wire.  Blue gray and black all seem to be ground but still in the dark as to the layout of this board.

Yep, it looks like the BG8000 board is different than the BG8002 board. It was worth a try... Debugging is certainly complicated by the muting relay shorting everything to ground. I don't know the details of what you are trying to accomplish, but sometimes simply removing the relay for debugging can make things easier to understand. Glitch

In fact last night I DID remove the relay and determined what is what and am confident I now have the wires right.  My plan is to just run the cartridge wires straight out the bottom and bypass the relay.  Wonder if anyone out there has a main board available?  Might be easier than trying to make this one wake up.

At the risk of talking to myself, I submit for those interested that I got some response by crowbarring DC supplies into the beogram8000.  I used two 9V in series and backwards for the NEG 15 plus a wall wart for the 5V and a regulated adjustable supply for PLUS 15.  It now lights up on the display board with 0000 and the arm lights are on.  It is pulling 18W from the wall on its own PT.  I disconnected the three supplies before sticking my alligator clips in.  This is somewhat encouraging so I might buy some electrolytics and see what happens then.  Thank you.

Hello:  Adding to this as things happen; none of them good.  I have lost +15V after I nearly had the thing working all correctly.  The regulator has +20 going in, +20 on the base to Q18 but zero on the collector output.  I am trying to learn how this is supposed to work but baffled.  Can I temporarily just send the output of the bridge directly to the load with main power coming up on variac?  Thank you.