When the problem was with the string drive, it's much more likely that the offset is between the carriage and the string rather than between parts of the mechanics. Adjust the black excentric at the foot of the carriage. Martin

Thanks. The little plastic hook that I had glued back in place came loose again, so this time I've added a little plastic 'buttress' of my own making and glued it back on so it should have a firmer hold. I also got the positioning of the hook more precise this time. When the glue dries I'll refit the wire drive and give that a try (I saw the adjustment method you mention in the service manual but it said that was more for 7" records).

Thanks for the advice Play, the platter seems to spin slowly for 2 or 3 revolutions, but by the time the arm has set down, it has reached the right speed. I'm assuming that this means the belt is worn, so I'll get a new one - they do them quite cheap on Beoparts Shop (or

Location: Liverpool

My B&O Icons:

BeoCenter-9500.png

Beoremote-Beo4.png

Beovox.png

Beovision-11.png

Beotime.png

Beosound.png

Beosound-Moment.png

Beosound-9000.png

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Beosound-4.png

Beoremote-One.png

Beoplay-Portal.png

Beoplay-EX.png

Beoplay-Earset.png

Beoplay-A2.png

Beogram-400x.png

Old enough to have gazed at classic B&O HiFi in Plumbs shop windows in the 80s...

Typical symptom of a slipping belt. With the Beogram unpowered and platter lifted off, put a finger on top of the motor pulley, rotate the subplatter ("skeleton" platter) by hand and feel for friction. There should be a fair amount of friction. If the belt doesn't "bite" the pulley but instead just "skates" on it, replace the belt. Yes, Danish Sound Parts is both Danish, Parts and Sound. Martin

Thanks for the advice - I've performed that test and there is no real friction there at all.  I performed the same test on my BG3000 just for comparison and there is plenty of friction there, so I see exactly what you mean.  I've ordered a new belt.

<h2 class="entry-title">@charliewednesday, do you happen to have any photos of how you fixed the little hook part which keeps the wire attached (or can you take one?), wold help me a lot figuring out how to fix mine. Thanks!</h2>

Hi Teemu.  I'm no photographer I'm afraid but hopefully these will help.  This repair was a while ago but from memory, I originally used contact adhesive to glue the hook back on, but it came off again - because it's only small, there isnlt much surface for the adhesive. So, second attempt, I made a little triangular plastic 'buttress' - a right-angled triangle of only about 3 or 4mm high, out of a hard plastic (I think I made it out of a broken cassette base, using a craft knife. I glued that onto the 'hook' first, and then I glued the hook in place, but this time I used superglue gel, and I used quite a bit of it too, hoping that the gel would dry into a 'blob' that would help hold it all in place.  Happily, it worked. It depends where yours is broke - on mine, the hook broke so that there was a rough area on the lower-right side (opposite side to the hook itself), which meant I had to glue it onto the right inside edge of the round hole on the carriage, where it had broken off from.  I had to allow for this when I attached my makeshift 'buttress', making sure the bottom edge of my buttress, and the right edge of the broken hook, formed a small right angle, which I could glue into place. I'm afraid it's not very clear on the photographs (the buttress is made of clear plastic so you can't really see it), so I've added a little diagram:

Hello, here are 2 pictures from the intenet how peaple have done it: