CDX 2 Repair , almost there..

7 replies
Hi. New gear and belt for the lid, and its nearly OK. Only problem is when lid close, it makes a little "jump"  2-3 mm,   then closes fully. I changed the blue cap. on the motor control pcb 8.  It was 20 uF so I changed it to the right one 68 uF.  But that was not good.  When lid opens fully it makes a bad "krak.krak"   sound.  Gave it the old 20 uF then, opens fine witout krak sound. Does anyone have a tip  with the small jump at closing   ?   Br  Jens
How's the plastic standoff that holds the lid/motor gear shaft? Mine was cracked quite badly.
problem solved.       By lubricating the belt with a little grease and reduce the friction it works now.   Opens and lid stops at top without crakking.
Lubricating the belt? Sounds more like an adjustment issue with the lid switch. Martin
Hi Martin, thank you for answer.    (er du ikke dansk, syntes jeg har set Dillen navnet før ?) I cant see how LID adjustment is possible,   the lid switch is mounted with 2 small screws and it have very little tolerance in holes.  I have tried to adjust. Also the LOAD switch is with 2 screws. I have seen that its possible in a CDX to adjust LOAD and LASER sw. There is no LASER sw in a CDX 2 and no MAINS sw, I need the schematic for a CDX 2, have only one for CDX. In a CDX the LID motor UP/DOWN voltage must bee +5 volt and -5 volt. But I have +8 volt and - 5 volt so maybe the +8 volt is too high at makes the crack sound ? Mvh Jens  
Beogram CDX2 has more in common with Beogram CD3300 than CDX. For some of the Beogram CDX2 circuits, you can use the CD3300 service manual. Martin
Thank you.  I found the 3300 service manual and the schematic.  Almost the same as in CDX 2. The problem was the (too high) positive voltage to motor. ( LID up.)   It was 8 volt. I could not find any defective components, so I added a 15 ohm in series with the collector on the driver transistor to motor.  Now it opens very smoothly. The minus -5 volt was -4,4 v so that worked fine. ( LID down.)
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