Question About Beogram 8002 Recapping

Glitch

Bronze

395 posts

Posted September 30, 2024 at 14:02 GMT

marcham

Bronze

63 posts

Posted September 30, 2024 at 23:36 GMT ? Edited September 30, 2024 at 23:38 GMT

#711772

The way that I usually do this is to install the positive lead into the center hole and the negative lead into one of the (blue) holes that needs the jumper. The negative lead should be long enough to bend over to the other (blue) hole to act like a jumper. Just make sure it doesn’t short anywhere on the backside of the circuit board. Glitch

Thanks, Glitch. Apparently I installed it the wrong way the first time. I've included a photo; let me know if that's what you were communicating. Ignore the bad looking solder job—it all holds up firm and has continuity. I'll visually touch it up when I'm done.

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Unfortunately, now the machine isn't giving me anything. When I first got it, it turned on, moved the tone arm half an inch, then shut off again. Told it needed new caps.

Now, not even getting a standby light. Checked all the caps to make sure they're in the correct orientation and there are no solder bridges, etc. All the fuses also look good.

Primary concern are the connectors that are bare metal into black slots (like the two running from the CPU PCB to the main board). They fit into their respective spots and are pushed all the way down but aren't really secure and slide right out if given the chance.

Any thoughts? Thanks for any help!
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
My B&O Icons:

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- Michael Archambault

marcham

Bronze

63 posts

Posted October 1, 2024 at 07:22 GMT ? Edited October 1, 2024 at 07:22 GMT

#711776

Following up with some additional information. Found a post on Beolover about checking the power when the 8002 shows no sign of life. They recommended checking the 5V regulator first, but I'm not sure on how to measure it. Any detailed instructions are welcome on testing the 5v regulator or the power in general. I have basic soldering skills and know how to probe with a multimeter, but my knowledge ends there. Login to view image
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
My B&O Icons:

Beovox.png
Beoplay-EX.png
Beoplay-A1.png
Beomaster.png
- Michael Archambault
GL

Glitch

Bronze

395 posts

Posted October 1, 2024 at 16:01 GMT

#711779

marcham

Bronze

63 posts

Posted October 2, 2024 at 02:44 GMT ? Edited October 2, 2024 at 02:45 GMT

#711785

I appreciate the advice, Glitch. I left the comment about not worrying about the soldering in my photo because I had an issue with my solder station and consistent temperatures. To show, I've retouched the board now that the station problem is resolved. I've also included photos of my recap job. Is it perfect? No, not at all, and I will keep practicing (I struggled a bit with the wire not being though-the-hole)! But it's nowhere as bad as you might have thought initially. :) Login to view image Login to view image Going back to the issue, I triple-checked my work: I looked for potential cracks, made sure the caps were installed with the correct polarity, and used a meter to test for continuity to ensure solid connections to points down the circuit— everything looked good. I also went through reflowing joints for all the major connectors. I think a component may have failed from excessive heat (I mentioned my solder station issue before), and I wonder if a cap has gone. My plan at this point is to ensure power is flowing correctly, and I've been told that it starts with the 5V regulator. Any assistance or detailed steps to ensure the PSU delivers voltage and electricity flows would be welcome. I had to move the metal shield on the transistor I pointed out at one point, and I wanted to ensure the component is now working.
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
My B&O Icons:

Beovox.png
Beoplay-EX.png
Beoplay-A1.png
Beomaster.png
- Michael Archambault
GL

Glitch

Bronze

395 posts

Posted October 2, 2024 at 13:02 GMT ? Edited October 2, 2024 at 13:10 GMT

#711796

marcham

Bronze

63 posts

Posted October 3, 2024 at 01:31 GMT ? Edited October 3, 2024 at 01:31 GMT

#711815

Hey Glitch, nice eye there! I've gone ahead and redone C24 as shown below. Another oddity that I noticed with this cap is that the board diagram shows reversed polarity compared to how the original was installed. Both the original cap and any repair work I have seen the other way. Thoughts? Login to view image
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
My B&O Icons:

Beovox.png
Beoplay-EX.png
Beoplay-A1.png
Beomaster.png
- Michael Archambault
GL

Glitch

Bronze

395 posts

Posted October 3, 2024 at 03:12 GMT

#711817

marcham

Bronze

63 posts

Posted October 3, 2024 at 03:36 GMT ? Edited October 3, 2024 at 03:36 GMT

#711818

Thanks, Glitch. I tried both methods shown below, and neither worked. I've left it in the 'A' configuration that you suggested. Here is the 'A' configuration that you suggested. Login to view image Login to view image Here is the 'B' configuration I see for other repairs, such as Login to view image Login to view image If I did want to test the power supply to ensure everything is working fine and test the 5V regulator, would you be kind enough to specify exactly where I should place my meter probes? Beolover provides a good guide for measuring across caps for the power supply, but I
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
My B&O Icons:

Beovox.png
Beoplay-EX.png
Beoplay-A1.png
Beomaster.png
- Michael Archambault

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