KolfMAKER

Bronze

569 posts

Posted February 2, 2024 at 15:24 GMT ? Edited February 2, 2024 at 15:25 GMT

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#707338

Thanks for your comment Guy, nice hearing from you again! I haven't exactly tried what you described. Though I have tested both Beo4's on a BeoSound Ouverture for normal operation. Both Beo4's and the Ouverture responded well to remote control operation, each time. Concerning the Test Mode on the BeoLab 3500, I wasn't aware that this is a testmode command set. I just use this command to activate the DIN connector for audio input (MCL set). But I must also add that I have been using another BeoLab 3500 (currently not in my house) this way for 2 years. It always responded well to this type of remote control operation. So my guess is that the comment by B3OHACK3R could help solve this.  

Location: The Netherlands

My B&O Icons:

Beoremote-Beo4.png

Beovox.png

Beosound.png

Beosound-9000.png

Beolab-18.png

KolfMAKER

Bronze

569 posts

Posted February 3, 2024 at 12:35 GMT

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#707348

@B3OHACK3R Concerning your remark to get to the components to be replaced: "The IR related parts are underneath the internal bracket that holds the display in place. For removing that you have to carefully desolder the red LED, the photo-resistor and the two IR sensors." I think what you mean is: (see 1st picture below)

1. De-solder the 2 points in the yellow square for the photo resistor.
2. De-solder the 4 points in the blue square (the legs of the two IR-sensors.
3. De-solder the 2 points in the reed square for the photo resistor.
4. De-clip the 4 plastic feet from the PCB and lift the plastic bracket at the front to access the components underneath. (2nd picture below)

Is this the right understanding?   Login to view image Login to view image  

Location: The Netherlands

My B&O Icons:

Beoremote-Beo4.png

Beovox.png

Beosound.png

Beosound-9000.png

Beolab-18.png

B3

B3OHACK3R

Bronze

157 posts

Posted February 3, 2024 at 16:08 GMT

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#707351

Yes, exactly. Sounds good. Don't forget to mark the polarity of the components when desoldering them. The photoresistor won't care but the LED certainly will and the two black IR sensors probably as well. Be careful when removing the black plastic frame. It'S a bit tricky as the display will come off as well. It's plugged into a two row pin socket connector on the bottom. So disengage the four clips from the bottom and then gently pull it up. You will need some force. Now when I look at the picture - you might also get away with just replacing C17. It's a dual footprint. It can either be an SMD or a THT part. Mine was SMD - if yours is THT like in the picture you might be able to replace it using a small tip for your soldering iron. Nevertheless then you are missing out two SMD electrolytic caps that are under the plastic frame. Lower left area close to the red LED in your second picture. I don't know which cap is actually causing the problem. I just replaced all three of them and since then everything is working well again.