I’m new ….. not very confident in AV matters …. and needing help.
I’m aiming to reuse my abandoned BeoVision 6-22 as a kitchen Freeview Play TV/Radio and wish to make this a pilot experience for my BV6-26 and BV10-32 in other rooms. These others have HDMI IN pathways and will be easier to connect than the BV6-22 where I am struggling to choose the most appropriate way to connect.
Straight Freeview Play boxes (without recorders) are few and far between these days ….. but I like Manhattan T4 because it has a sister version with-recorder (T4-R) that will offer minimum complexity of operation with all boxes across the house having the same heritage. I’m 81 and my wife is 77 and we struggle with modern operation where grandchildren seem to prosper.
The challenge is how to connect the Manhattan T4 to the BV6-22 …. and yet preserve its 720p HD resolution. I have a strong desire to achieve the best possible video resolution that the BV6-22 is capable of providing (HD 720p) ….. rather than an easier or less costly settling for lower resolution (SD 480p or 240p).
Option 1 ( combined video and sound pathway)
Manhattan T4, HDMI out > Cable 1 > Box A > Cable 2 > AV SCART Socket in BV6-22 .
Cable 1 = HDMI/HDMI
Box A = HDMI IN / RBG + L/R OUT
Cable 2 = RGB + L/R Sound / SCART
Option 2 ( separated pathways for video and sound)
Manhattan T4 HDMI out > Cable 3 > DVI-D Socket in BV6-22 ) ( video only)
+
Manhattan T4 Optical S/PDIF out > Cable 4 > Box B > Cable 5 > L/R IN on BV6-22 (audio only)
Cable 3 = HDMI/DVI-D
Cable 4 = Optical/ Optical
Box B = Optical IN / L/R áudio OUT
Cable 5 = Stereo Audio / Stereo Audio
Option 2 seems the easier video route, but I can’t really believe offering the BV6-22 a signal that comes out of an 8 million pixel sender straight into a 1 million pixel receiver will end up without considerable chaos.
Any comments, advice and recommendations would be much appreciated.
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BeoVision 6-22 : A Second Life ?
4 replies
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
I don't have experience of BV6-22 but have connected hdmi devices to both BV6-26 and BV6-23 in the past, making use of the DVI-D input.
Have a read of my experiences of various hdmi audio extractors here:
... and then an hdmi to dvi lead to connect to the TV's DVI socket, plus a 3.5mm plug to 2 x phono lead to connect to the Beovision's PC audio input sockets.
EDIT: You then select the DVI/PC input by pressing PC on the Beo4 (you may need to add this to the LIST function). If you have a Beolink 1000 remote then select PC by pressing SHIFT then STORE.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Thank you , Guy.
It is amazingly comforting when you think you might have caused a guffaw by an outlandishly stupid idea .... and you discover someone else has executed it successfully, in principle at least. So my focus will be on using the DVI connection …… but with misgivings about my ability to do whatever is necessary with the Beo4 to magic up “PC”.
I am still amazed that straight input from a device like your Apple TV, where the granularity at 1080p is higher than the capability of the TV, can be tolerated. ….. as will occur in your BV6-23 case and my BV6-22, both being 720p. I think your article put this down to manual selection of a setting in your Apple TV ( 720p @50Hz) …… and I have no idea if the Manhattan T4 offers such adjustment. I’ll ask them what settings are available, if any.
As for stripping the audio out of the HDMI signal you had to perform, Manhattan has obviated this from being needed in my project as it has been done within the T4 by offering the optical S/PDIF audio out ….. and it’s just a matter of converting this to L/R audio ( there are converters out there to perform this conversion, from CYP for example).
In another thread you talked about a much more worrying aspect of HDMI signals – HDPC - that is designed to prevent HDMI video signal transmission if the both the transmitter and receiver are not HDCP capable ….. which will surely be the case for something as old as my BV6-22. Is this feature of the modern world not likely to be the job-stopper of all job-stoppers?
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